Vegetable tan leather is a type of leather that is made using vegetable-based tanning agents, as opposed to chemical-based tanning agents. This process results in a more natural and eco-friendly product, as well as a unique and beautiful patina over time. Vegetable tan leather is typically more durable and resistant to water than chrome-tanned leather. It is also often more expensive. The process of vegetable tanning is an ancient technique that is still used today by a small number of artisans and craftsmen. It is considered a traditional method of tanning and the leather produced is considered premium quality leather. If you're looking for a natural-looking leather alternative, vegetable tanning may be the best option for you!
What is vegetable-tanned leather?
If you're looking for a unique and stylish way to add a touch of high-end material to your accessories comparable to the ones from Italy, look no further than vegetable-tanned leather. Made from the skin of fruit or vegetable crops that have been treated with a solution of salt, lime, and water in the tanneries this variety of leather is famous for products that need to be tough but still look good. It's also used for items that are sensitive to chemicals - like jewelry, upholstery, or furniture. As a result, vegetable-tanned leather is a natural choice for products that need to be environmentally friendly, sustainable, and cruelty-free.
A brief history of vegetable tan leather
Vegetable tan leather was first made in the late 1800s by treating vegetable tannin with a solution of formaldehyde and linseed oil. The process turned out to be quite labor-intensive, so it wasn't very widespread until the 1950s when it began being produced on a larger scale using new techniques.
Vegetable tanning methods
Leather goods are definitely in right now, with celebrities like Kendall Jenner and Rihanna opting for them as their go-to fashion accessory. But where does natural vegetable tan leather come in? Well, the answer is vegetable tan leather is a variety of leather that is created by tanning the skin of plants and putting it in a liming pit for the hair to come off.
Tanning
The vegetable tanning process is among the tanning methods of applying a natural or artificial tanning agent to leather, hide, paper, or other surfaces in order to make them color. Before tanning, hides are kept in a beam-house, which, deriving from its name, beam-house, is a facility for storage. There are two different kinds of tanning – organic material tanning and inorganic material tanning. Inorganic material tanning uses chemicals to turn the skin cells into polymers, which eventually form leathery substances. Organic material tanning uses natural agents like tree bark or dandelion root, which results in softness and more natural-looking leather.
Treatment
The tanned skins come at this moment, ready for different kinds of processes such as molding, tooling, and carving with vivid and rich colors. Massive drums, which look like steroidal wine barrels, spin in the air while dyeing the hides.
Benefits of vegetable-tanned leather
Looking for a natural leather option that's eco-friendly and has a beautiful patina? Look no further than vegetable tan leather! This type of leather is made from vegetable materials and has a supple feel and a beautiful patina that develops over time as you continue to use leather conditioner. It's often used for shoes, bags, and other accessories because it resists water, oil, and dirt well. Plus, because it's made from natural materials, vegetable tan leather is environmentally friendly too!
Develops a Patina overtime
Vegetable tan leather will develop a patina over time that will give it a unique, vintage look. This product is made from high-quality hides, and it's designed to last.
Environmentally Friendly
When it comes to finding a way to produce eco-friendly leather goods which produce a good environmental impact, the vegetable tanning process is one of the most sustainable methods out there. Not only is it kinder to the environment, but it also produces durability and longevity in products that are pleasing to the eye. The vegetable tanning process is eco-friendly and doesn't damage the environment in any way as it does not contain any toxic substances.
Extraordinary earthly smell
If you're looking for an extraordinary earthly smell that is hard to resist, then vegetable-tanned leather is a perfect choice. Made from the skins of fruits and vegetables that have been treated with a natural tanning agent, this leather has an amazing scent that will entice you. Not only does it boast a delicious aroma, but its unique texture and look also make it ideal for different items such as shoes, bags, wallets etcetera.
Durable
Sturdy vegetable-tanned leather is perfect for high-use pieces of upholstery and furniture. It is resistant to water and dirt, has a natural look and feel, and requires no special preparations or treatments before use.
Produces a Stretchable Leather
Any leather made from the artisanal nature of the tanning process has a high tensile strength, and great flexibility, and develops a nice patina with time.
Disadvantages of vegetable-tanned leather
Leather is a material that has been used for centuries, and it's currently one of the most popular materials for shoes, clothing, and accessories. But what is vegetable-tanned leather, and how does it differ from other kinds of leather? This special process has several disadvantages, including the risk of pollution and environmental damage. Besides this, vegetable-tanned leather may also be heavy and uncomfortable to wear.
The color will not be as rich as regular tanned leather
When it comes to tanning this kind of leather, you should know that the color will not be as rich as regular tanned leather. Therefore, make sure you plan your process well in advance if you want to achieve a true vegetable tan leather effect. It may take a longer time than usual to get the desired results - so patience is key!
More expensive
Leather veg-tan is more expensive than any leather tan. The main reason for the difference in price is that vegetable-tanned leather takes longer to produce, which results in a higher cost per unit.
Limited variation of colors
Tanning with vegetable tannins extracted from quebracho wood, chestnut, mimosa, and other barks results in a uniform color, which can be difficult to get from other types of leather. There is no variation in colors - it's either light brown or dark brown.
Products Vegetable-tanned Leather Is Commonly Used For
If you're ever in the market for a new kind of leather product, look no further than vegetable-tanned leather. This kind of leather is made from plants' skin and fat tissue, making it resistant to hot and cold water, oil, and weather conditions.
Bags
Vegetable tan leather bags make for a really stylish and practical option for carrying your groceries or other items around. Not only are they comfortable to wear, but the natural color of veg-tan leather makes them versatile and easy to combine with any outfit.
A vegetable tan leather belt will add a natural look to any outfit. It is made from vegetable-tanned leather and has a comfortable fit. You'll find vegetable-tanned leather products all over the internet, so don't miss out on this unique style choice!
Wallets
If you're looking for a practical and beautiful leather option for your wallet, look no further than vegetable-tanned leather. It is a very sturdy material that will last you years by just simply using a conditioner.
Shoes are essential for a stylish and comfortable outfit, but what kind of shoes should you buy? Choose shoes that are made from vegetable-tanned leather. This type of leather is a good choice because it has an actual process that results in a strong finish.
Vegetable Leather vs chrome tanning
Vegetable tanning is a process that uses the sun to create a tan (a brown substance). This process is done through tanning beds and tanning lamps, but chrome-tanned leather is also an option, which uses an agent called chromium. Chromium tanning is less environmentally friendly, as it generates more toxic byproducts, which are utilized in latigo leather. However, vegetable tanning is more environmentally friendly as it uses natural ingredients and does not involve harmful chemicals.
Conclusion
In this blog, we've taken a look at what vegetable tan leather is, the history of this product, as well as some of its benefits and drawbacks. We hope that this information has helped you to make an informed decision about whether or not vegetable leather is the right option for you. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave them below!
FAQs
Why do people use vegetable tan leather for shoes, bags, and other accessories?
People often choose vegetable tan leather for shoes, bags, and other accessories because of its natural texture, longevity, and durability. It is also environmentally friendly as it does not require the use of harsh chemicals or dyes.
Which kind of vegetable-tanned leather is better: oil-based or water-based?
When it comes to selecting the best type of vegetable-tanned leather, it really depends on your specific needs and preferences. However, oil-based leather is generally more resistant to water damage than water-based leather. Oil-tanned leather also develops a unique patina with age that can make it more attractive for some applications. Water-tanned leather, on the other hand, has a softness characteristic and is more flexible than oil-tanned leather. So, depending on your specific needs, you may prefer one type of vegetable leather over the other.
How can you get vegetable tan leather?
To get vegetable tan leather, you'll need to visit specialty stores or order it online. Leather suppliers often have vegetable leather in a range of colors, thicknesses, and finishes. You can also buy pre-cut vegetable tan leather for specific projects like wallets or bags. Alternatively, you can tan your own animal hides with natural ingredients like tree bark or leaves.
Is vegetable-tanned leather real leather?
Yes, vegetable leather is real finished leather. This type of leather is often used to make high-quality leather goods, such as bags and wallets.
If you're looking for a unique kind of leather product that's not available anywhere else, then you need to try vegetable-tanned leather! This process of tanning leather using vegetable oil results in durable and versatile leather that's perfect for shoes, bags, or any upholstery materials. So read on to check out and learn all you need to know about this sustainable option for leather goods!
Steel Horse Leather Co.
What is vegetable-tanned leather?
Vegetable leather is a unique type of leather that's made from the tanned hides of an animal or a tree bark that is treated with vegetable tanning. This process produces a lighter and rich color and a more porous surface than regular leather. It's eco-friendly, functional, and long-lasting - perfect for use in furniture, and bags, as opposed to full grain leather or genuine leather, especially in terms of softness. So what are you waiting for? Give vegetable leather a try and see for yourself how amazing it is!
Brief History of Vegetable Tanned Leather.
While vegetable-tanned leather has been around for centuries, this process became more common in the 1800s as improvements were made to tanneries and equipment. Today, you can find vegetable leather products in many different styles, colors, and sizes. Its rustic look and feel add character to items that need durability like wallets, purses, and furniture. In addition to its practical uses, this leather can also be stylishly used on shoes or other accessories.
What is the difference between vegetable-tanned leather and regular leather?
When it comes to leather, there are two main types - vegetable and regular. Vegetable leather is made from the skins of agricultural products that have been treated with a tanning agent. This process not only gives the leather a slightly different color, feel and smell but also makes it more sturdy as it can last longer without losing its shape or color. Regular genuine leather is made from the skin of an animal that has not undergone any type of processing of toxic substances, which means that it contains more oil and will eventually wear down faster. Additionally, vegetable-tanned leather is more environmentally friendly as it does not require any toxic chemicals.
Vegetable-tanned leather's production process is made by soaking animal skin in a solution of water, oil, and salt for several weeks as it slowly forms a beautiful patina over time.
Pre-tanning
Pre-tanning is a process that converts the natural oils in the skin into a protective layer. This results in leather that has a slightly different color than regular leather because of the tanning process. It is also an eco-friendly option as it doesn't involve using harsh chemicals or animal products. Moreover, it gives consumers the chance to buy ethical products without compromising on quality or durability. Pre-tanning can be done before or after vegetable tanning - both methods give good results.
Tanning
Tanning is the process of turning animal skins into finished leather. Vegetable-tanned leather has a unique appearance and feels because it contains natural variations in dye to a color that comes from the process of dying or staining the skin with various chemicals. The veg tan leather is perfect for products that need to be environmentally friendly - such as bags and wallets made from organic materials by skilled craftsmen. Another process of tanning is chrome-tanned leather, which is tanned by the use of chromium salts, also known as chrome tanning.
Dyeing, Hot Stuffing, Drying
The next step is the hot stuffing process which makes the leather much tougher than before. Dyeing, hot stuffing, drying, and at times even stamping, are the processes that are used to turn natural vegetable-tanned leather into a sturdy product. These steps make the leather more flexible and tough, making it perfect for products such as wallets, bags, and other accessories. It's then put into a mold and heated until it becomes very flexible again.
Finishing the Leather
The skin is treated with a vast majority of chemicals to stop it from rotting, then left to dry out for a few weeks. Once it's dried, the resulting leather can be used in different ways such as in shoes, bags, and other items.
Benefits of Vegetable-Tanned Leather
There's a reason why vegetable-tanned leather is becoming increasingly popular - it has a host of benefits that make it a great choice for footwear and other accessories. Plus, it has an interesting story - vegetable-tanned leather is tanned with vegetable oil instead of petroleum products, making it ethically sound too!
Environmental Benefits
There are a number of environmental benefits associated with vegetable tanning. First, it ages gracefully and becomes richer and more beautiful as it gains experience. This reduces the carbon footprint of the process since tanned leather requires less energy to produce than animal-tanned leather.
Aids in Crafting Quality Items
Vegetable-tanned leather is a great option for businesses that need quality items that are sturdy and require less maintenance. Not only is it more strong than regular leather, but its natural scent and insulation properties make it perfect for cold climates. In addition to this, the dyeing process used helps give it a unique look and feel.
Reduces Waste
By using vegetable-tanned leather, businesses can reduce the amount of waste they produce. Not only is it environmentally friendly, but this material is also strong and easy to care for - perfect for products that need to last long.
Fashionable
It is versatile enough to be worn in any season - whether you're looking for something stylish and eye-catching during springtime or want to add some warmth during winter.
Leather is the perfect material for a variety of applications - from accessories to shoes to furniture. And, vegetable-tanned leather is no exception. As a natural and organic material, it's important to take care of it.
Avoid getting your leather wet
Always treat vegetable-tanned leather with caution - avoid getting it wet. Use a protective spray on regular occasions to help preserve the finish of your leather goods!
Keep your leather away from heat
Avoid exposing your leather to direct sunlight or fire - these are two common ways in which it can be damaged. Also, keep in mind that vegetable leather is a unique type of leather and requires special care when it comes not just to sun exposure but also to water damage (avoid boiling water).
Don't use brushes with synthetic bristles
To keep your leather looking good and avoid any damage, it's important to take care of it the right way. It's best to use a brush made from natural bristles instead of synthetic ones - these won't harm the vegetable-tanned skin layer underneath.
Never blow dry your Leather
Leather is a beautiful and expensive material, so it's important to take care of it. One of the most common mistakes people make when dry-cleaning leather is using a low heat setting on their clothes dryer. This cause the leather to shrink, crack, and lose its color.
Conclusion
Vegetable-tanned leather is a natural and sustainable process of tanning animal hides using vegetable tanning agents produced by artisans. It is the most environmentally-friendly and sustainable way to produce leather, as it uses natural ingredients and doesn't involve the use of harsh chemicals. If you're interested in learning more about vegetable-tanned leather, be sure to check out our blog post!
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do people prefer vegetable-tanned leather over other types of leather?
There are many reasons why people prefer vegetable leather over other types of leather. For one, vegetable tanning is a more environmentally-friendly process compared to the traditional methods of tanning hides. It uses natural plants involves as tanning agents, which means that it's not harmful to the environment. Moreover, vegetable tanning gives the leather a natural look and feel that some people prefer over the traditional look and feel of tanned leathers made from hides.
Is there any harm in using vegetable-tanned leather?
There is no harm in using this type of leather. In fact, it has a number of environmental benefits that outweigh any potential negative effects. One of the main reasons why vegetable tanning is environmentally friendly is because it helps in preserving resources like water and oil.
Why is it called vegetable-tanned leather?
Vegetable tanning is a process that allows for the elimination of harmful chemicals like formaldehyde, toluene, xylene, and phthalates. This type of tanning also leaves behind a sturdy finish that's resistant to water damage and staining.
Is vegetable tanned leather high quality?
Yes, vegetable leather is of high quality as it contains natural oils and proteins that keep the leather soft and supple. Additionally, it is environmentally friendly, sustainable, and animal cruelty-free.
Why vegetable tanned leather is so expensive?
There are a few reasons why vegetable-tanned leather is so expensive. Firstly, it takes much longer for the tanning process to transform the skin into a tough finish. This process can take up to two months, which is longer than standard tanning methods that only require a few days. Secondly, tanned leather requires a lot of time and effort to complete. The process typically requires using different types of wax, chemicals, or oils, as well as plenty of water, which all contribute to the high price tag. Many people believe that vegetable-tanned leather has a unique smell and look that set it apart from other types of skins. Plus, it's often seen as more luxurious because it's thought to last longer and withstand harsher conditions.
Why do people choose to tan their leather using vegetables?
People choose to tan their leather using vegetables because it gives a natural and strong finish. This process is done without the use of harsh chemicals or solvents, and it helps protect the environment by eliminating harmful chemicals from the process. Additionally, vegetable leather is sustainable and environmentally friendly as the artisans use minimal resources.
From animal skin to leather. How do they do it? Leather-making is an ancient practice that has continued to exist for many centuries now. This ancient practice of turning raw animal hide into something strong and durable greatly relies on one certain phase. This is the leather tanning phase. This step is what turns rawhide into the reliable material we all know and love.
Moreover, have you ever wondered what exactly happens during the tanning stage? What happens to the animal skin as it soaks for days in a drum? What likewise changes in the skin as the days go by? Why do we even need to tan animal skin in the first place? Additionally, what are the pros and cons of tanning? Expand your knowledge as we continue to explain the what, the how, and the why of tanning leather.
How is Leather Made?
Making leather is a long process that requires years to master and perfect. It involves quite a handful of steps in transforming raw hide into strong, durable, and beautiful leather products. There are also various ways to make leather; different methods involved in transforming rawhide to leather.
Of course, if you simplify the leather-making process there are merely three steps to it. The first step is to prepare the animal skin, the second is to tan the skin, and the final step is to finish the leather product. However, in this article, we are all about focusing on the tanning process. Truth be told, making leather mainly focuses on the leather tanning process. This is the step where the actual change happens. It is where animal skin transforms into something great. For many great centuries, the tanning process turned animal skin into useful things like clothes, shoes, and tools. Even if it is an ancient practice, you can make and tan your own leather with a little bit of knowledge and a whole lot of time and practice.
What Exactly is Leather Tanning?
Tanning is simply the process of treating the skin or hide of the animal to make leather. The place where the tanning process usually happens is at the leather tannery. A tannery, like the one in Morocco, is usually large-scale. It has numerous drums that are capable of tanning hundreds of animal skin at the same time. Additionally, the tannery in Morocco is really old. It is proof that tanning and leather production is an ancient art form. Likewise, two ancient civilizations like Sumer and India have also been practicing leather tanning for thousands of years.
Additionally, tanning is not just an ancient art form. While the animal skin soaks up the tanning agent it goes through chemical and physical change. The end product is leather, however, not all will have the same quality. This is because tanning also involves different techniques and methods. Each technique or method or solution applied to the leather will produce a different change. This, therefore, makes the leather tanning process interesting and important to learn.
Why do we need to tan leather?
Now that we get the gist of what exactly is leather tanning the next question we need to as is “why”. Why do we need to tan leather? The simplest answer would be “to make leather”. But that is not enough. Why do we need to tan animal skin to turn it into leather? What is in the tanning process that changes ordinary animal skin into leather? Why is there a need to tan the animal skin in the first place?
The answer is really simple. It is to keep the animal skin or hide from rotting, decomposing, and putrefying. Once the animal is dead, the skin will take its natural course and begin to break down. There are many elements that usually break down and decompose the animal skin. It may be because of bacteria that eats away the flesh or the elements which will try to harden the skin or both. Tanning, therefore, prevents all of this from happening.
Tanning will permanently alter the protein structure of the animal skin. It will make the skin more durable and less likely to decompose. Different solutions offer different changes to the skin. Changes such as the change in color, flexibility, softness, or strength. However, whatever method or technique you use, the primary purpose of tanning is to preserve the skin. Tanning, therefore, preserves the animal skin and likewise creates leather in the process. Additionally, tanning will not only preserve the skin but also protect it from the elements. Protecting it from decomposing when it gets wet.
Different Methods of Tanning Leather
Being an ancient form of art, many have developed different methods or techniques of tanning. There are many ways to tan animal skin or hide. There are however two methods that are the most common. They are the vegetable tanning method and the chrome tan or chromium tanning method. There are also other alternative tanning methods that we will also be briefly discussing.
What is Vegetable Tanning?
A tanning method that has been in practice since ancient times. The vegetable tanning method uses natural tannins from the bark and leaves of trees and plants. After the animal skin has been skinned, cleaned, and prepared the hides are placed in the tanning pit. These tanning pits are usually drums that contain tannin solutions of various strengths.
The vegetable tanning method takes time. The animal skin soaks inside the tanning pit for over a period of two to three months. According to ancient practice, the tanners move the animal skin from one drum to another. They typically move the animal skin to the next drum that has a solution progressively stronger than the last. The tanning agents penetrate the skin as the solution gets stronger and stronger. Additionally, since this method uses an organic solution, fermentation occurs. This gives the leather its distinct color and appearance. It also leaves the final product a distinctive sweet and woody fragrance. A smell that typically indicates real leather.
They continue this process until they reach the desired final product.
“Natural” Tanning
Natural tanning happens when specific conditions occur. These conditions are usually present in bogs. The conditions include highly acidic water, low temperature, and a lack of oxygen. These certain conditions preserve the skin. It can, however, leave a severe tan that is similar to or identical to that of mummified dead bodies, also known as bog bodies.
Brain Tanning
Another form of natural tanning. This tanning technique is quite difficult to pull off. It is a labor-intensive way of tanning animal hides. This method usually uses skin from deer, elk, or moose. Tanners use the natural tannic acid from the animal to tan its own hide. First, they clean the skin thoroughly by scraping all the flesh, fat, and membrane off the flesh of the skin. The tanner then washes the skin and stretches it on a frame to dry. What is so unique about its method is that it uses a very unique and fascinating tanning solution. It actually uses a mixture of warm water and the mashed-up animal brain to tan the hide. Once they finish applying the solution they smoke the skin to complete the process.
What is Chrome (Chromium) Tanning?
Unlike the ancient practice of vegetable tanning, chrome tanning or chromium tanning is relatively recent. It is also one of the most practiced methods of tanning leather. This is because it has certain advantages in comparison to other techniques of tanning, especially against vegetable tanning.
This recent method of tanning leather has two stages. The first stage involves soaking the animal skin in baths that containing acidic salts. The animal skin soaks inside the bath until they are ready for the next step. The next step is the chrome tanning proper. Once again the animal skins get to soak inside a bath. This time the bath contains chromium tanning agents such as chromium sulfate and chromium salts. Unlike the first stage, the acidity of the bath is reduced until the hide begins to absorb the chromium tanning agents. This process produces blue hides. They are better known as “wet blue hides.”
The advantage of chrome tanned leather is that it is faster than vegetable tanned leather. Vegetable tanning usually takes a few months to finish. However, chrome tanning can take up to as fast as one day, with aid of modern machinery. Chrome leather also costs less because it is less difficult to manufacture. What usually makes vegetable tanning expensive is because it is labor-intensive.
Alternative Chemicals / Synthetic Tanning
This technique is the frequent alternative to chrome tanning. They do not apply it on their own but apply it together with other tanning solutions. Tanners usually combine it with either vegetable or chrome tanning solutions. This method of tanning uses artificial tanning agents such as formaldehyde, glutaraldehyde, phenols, and acrylates. They call these types of leather wet whites. Wet whites can also be made using aldehydes, aluminum, zirconium, titanium, or iron salts, or a combination of any of them. This method is likely to produce very soft leathers that are usually on car seats.
Mineral Tanning
Another method that uses chromium salts is mineral tanning. This method also speeds up the tanning process to days or even hours. It usually produces soft, pliable leather that is light.
Tawing
This method uses alum and other aluminum salts together with binders such as egg yolk or flour to tan the skin. This process is known to increase animal skin pliability, stretchability, softness, and quality.
How is leather tanning done today?
Today, the leather tanning industry is now a more industrialized process. Back then, the animal skin and the solutions or tanning agents soak inside a drum or container. The hide and the solutions just sit there until they are ready, although tanners casually move them around. Back then it was indeed a tiring process. However, today we have very large rotating drum containers that fill up and drain themselves after every stage. Thereby removing the hassle of having a different set of drums for each tanning step. Today, tanning can be more efficient with the help of machines. Proof of great progress the leather industry is making. However, there are still some who prefer to do it old school.
An Overview of the Leather Tanning Process
There are several steps involved in the ancient art of tanning leather. It also involves different techniques and methods that produce varying colors, textures, and finishes. In order for us to easily understand the tanning process, we divided them into four different phases. The four phases are namely the Beamhouse phase, the Tanyard phase, the Retanning phase, and the Finishing phase. Naturally, the leather tanning process takes months to complete. However, as we learn, later on, there are different methods that speed up the process.
There are certain steps to take before the actual tanning process begins. Naturally, we start with the preparation stage. This stage mainly involves skinning the animal once it arrives from the farm, slaughterhouse, or wherever the animal came from. In this stage, they will detach the skin from the animal and remove any scraps of flesh left from the process.
The first phase is the beam house operations. According to the Merriam-Webster dictionary, a beam house is a part or section of the tannery where the hides are prepared. Basically, the first phase is also all about preparing the leather. This phase mainly focuses on the animal hide, how to clean it, how to treat it, and why it is necessary to treat the animal hide. While all other steps are important, I believe that the first phase is the most important.
Step 1: Curing
The first step to any leather-making process is to stop the animal skin from decomposing. Otherwise, you would just have wet, rotting animal skin. This process is usually done as soon as possible. Decomposition usually begins within the first 5 hours, depending on the elements and bacterial growth. The way to stop the decomposition is to “cure” or preserve the hide. There are a few ways to cure a hide, here are some reliable methods.
Sun Drying
Probably the oldest method when it comes to curing hides. This works by stretching the hide and exposing it out in the sun to dry. The hide will stop decomposing as soon as it dries thereby preserving it. However, this method is not practical for areas that are warm and humid. Moreover, the leather produced from this method is likely lower in quality. This is sometimes due to overexposure to the sun.
Freezing
Of course, another way to stop bacterial growth and decomposition is by freezing. Unlike sun-drying, this method is quick and easy. However, both sun drying and freezing lead to low-quality leather. This is because the water molecules found inside the skin will expand and cause structural damage to the hide.
Dry Salting
This method involves heavily covering the hide with salt. It is then left to dry. As it dries, the salt will draw out any moisture left inside the hide. This will make the hide resistant to bacterial growth. It will likewise make the hide stiff.
Wet Salting
Likewise, salting involves soaking the hide in a high-concentrated salt solution. It works basically like the dry salt method where it draws out water inside the hide. This will likewise prevent any bacterial growth that causes decay. Many prefer wet salting to dry salting because it responds better later in the tanning process.
Controlled Drying
This method works similarly to the sun drying method. However, this method yields more consistent and high-quality leather. This is because the hides are in a more controlled environment usually inside a controlled drying chamber. The downside to controlled drying is the cost. The chamber usually needs something to control the heating, cooling, humidity, and airflow.
Once the hides are done curing they are now ready for storing and/or transporting. Storing and transporting the hides will also differ according to the method of curing you use. Like for example, you must store sun-dried hides in a dry place, preferably low in humidity. Likewise, if you freeze the hide then you must also store and transport them while there are still frozen. The hide is also sorted according to its weight and quality. Tanners also remove unnecessary or extremely damaged portions from the hide. The scraps are either discarded or reused to make lower-quality leather.
Step 2: Soaking/ Washing
After curing, the hides are usually salty and very stiff. To make them pliable and ready for tanning tanners soak them in water. This will reintroduce moisture to the leather fibers making them more usable. The water usually contains some chemicals like disinfectants to prevent the risk of bacteria growing.
Step 3: Liming
In this step, the hide is treated to remove any remaining organic substance on the hide. Examples are the epidermis, the roots of the hair, undesired fats, and soluble proteins. The hide is treated in a mixture of alkali and other additives. This solution will weaken the hair and its roots, any proteins, fats, collagens, and more. It basically makes it easier to remove unnecessary things for making leather.
Step 4: Fleshing and Unhairing
After successfully liming the hide, it now becomes easier to remove any unwanted parts of the skin. Most parts of the hide are now weakened and unhairing can now being. the old school way of unhairing was to use hand tools and scrapping/scudding them off. It was a very labor-intensive process despite the hair already being weakened. These days unhairing is usually done mechanically. There are machines, rollers, and blades that do the job. efficiently.
After removing the hair, the hide can now be fleshed. Fleshing removes the epidermal layer of the skin as well as the remaining hair roots. This process is generally known as “scudding”, which mainly refers to doing it by hand. However, like unhairing, it can also be done mechanically.
This step is the last of the beam house operations. At this stage, the hide is clean and ready for the next phase of the leather tanning process.
Second Phase: Tanyard
The second phase of the leather tanning process is also the main leather-making stage. This phase basically takes the cleaned and disinfected hide and turns them into usable leather material. This phase will also take time depending on what method or technique of tanning you are using. Like for example, the vegetable will usually take around a few months to complete whereas chrome tanning takes only a few days. Machinery, tools, and the overall manufacturing capability are also a factor. Here are the steps for the second phase.
This step aims to improve the properties of the leather such as its softness and pliability. To do this they must bring down the PH level of the leather to a lower level using buffering salts. This will reverse the previous liming process done during the beam house operations. This process is usually known as deliming and buffering. However, the whole process is collectively called Bating. This step is very important in terms of manipulating the preferred end state of the leather and its characteristics. To manipulate the leather specific enzyme agents are introduced. These agents work better at a lower PH.
Step 6: Pickling (for chrome tanning only)
This step of the leather tanning process is applicable only for chrome tanning. Chrome tanning agents are not soluble under the current PH level we are now. The process of pickling drops the chrome tanning PH to 2. Pickling will lower the PH of the collagen in the hide. This will allow tanning agents to easily penetrate the hide.
For vegetable leather, pickling is not necessary as the tanning can function at a higher or more basic PH level.
Step 7: Tanning
After going through all the steps of preparation, the hides are ready for tanning. We will briefly discuss the two mains methods of tanning, namely, vegetable and chrome tanning. We will not discuss the other methods of tanning since it has already been mentioned earlier.
Vegetable Tanning
An ancient practice and probably the oldest known common method of tanning. This method of tanning uses a naturally occurring tanning astringent from plants and tree bark. Some examples are chestnut, hemlock, mangrove, and oak bark. This natural solution is better known as tannins. The vegetable tannin will basically bind and cover the collages on the hide. This will make the hide less susceptible to bacterial growth. It will likewise be less water-soluble and more flexible or pliable. It can also be referred to as bark tanning since it mainly uses tree barks to create the tannin.
Contrary to common knowledge, the vegetable tanning process can take as fast as 2 days in the accelerated process. However, it usually takes up to 30 days or more in the standard process. Back then vegetable tanning is usually carried out in large pits. Tanners continue to agitate the leather within the solution, a very laborious process. Now, you will usually find them inside rotating drums which makes things easier. Additionally, tanners continue to expose the hide to stronger and stronger levels of the tannins as the process continues.
This method of tanning produces soft yet strong and a bit stiff leather. They are perfect for leather goods such as saddles, upper leather, tooling leather, sole leather, and belts. The color varies and is available in a few shades of yellow, brown, and even in reds.
Chrome Tanning
This method of tanning leather has become very popular due to its efficiency. It typically produces leather that is thin, soft, and stretchable. Chrome tanned leather is also resistant to shrinking in warm/heated water. The secret lies behind the changes within the leather itself. Unlike veg tanned leather, the tanning liquor not only binds to the collagen but also increases the space between the proteins in the hide. Chromium also penetrates better and at a much faster rate than the tannins. The whole process usually takes less than one day and requires less labor. The hides are milled in a single solution until the tanning process is complete. It is usually done in what they call a “one-bath” method where the PH level is around 2-4.
Step 8: Drying
Once the hides absorb all the tanning solutions it needs to dry. There are generally two ways to dry the leather. We call this method wringing. You basically squeeze the excess moisture out of the leather with large, heavy rollers. Another way is to dry using vacuum suction. After the leather is dry you proceed to the next step.
Step 9: Splitting
In order to turn leather into different products, it must be of the right thickness. For example, leather gloves and wallets require thin leather. Bags and saddles on the other hand require something thicker. This is why there is a need to split leather. It also makes leather easier to work with. Splitting is the “longitudinal cutting” of the leather into thinner layers. When leather is split, its different layers also have different characteristics and quality. A diagram of a leather’s cross-section will help you identify the different layers and their names. They are full-grain leather, top-grain, and genuine leather to name a few.
Furthermore, if you want an even more refined or thinner leather you can do so by shaving. Shaving can remove thinner layers of leather than cutting.
If you wish to know more about the different layers of leather click on the links below.
Congratulations, the hide has been tanned successfully. At this phase, you may consider the tanned hide as usable material. You might be wondering why we have a retaining phase when we just finished tanning. The purpose of retanning is to refine the leather. After the first tanning session, there are still more tangible qualities on the leather that we can influence. Qualities such as color, softness, flexibility, pliability, and density can still be manipulated.
For efficiency's sake, retanning is done in sequence inside a rotating drum that washes and dries the leather in-between steps. Think of this phase as doing your laundry on an automatic laundry machine.
Step 11: Altering the appearance
Altering the appearance of leather is nothing new. Leather is often colored, or, bleached into a wide array of looks. The most common practice is to dye leather. There are two general classifications of dye: water-soluble and oil-based. Dyeing will also affect the properties of the leather. Depending on what kind of dye you use its flexibility, softness, and even storage life will be affected. There are four main types of dye, which are Acid, Basic, Direct, and Sulfur. Each type of dye offers different benefits from one another.
The Vernon Backpack
On another note, veg tan leather is generally not dyed. This is because they already have such a pleasing and natural appearance that dyeing it would just ruin the leather.
Step 12: Fatliquoring
After going through so much, the leather tends to become dry and stiff. Fatliquoring applies lubricants to the leather to make it stronger and more flexible.
Step 13: Setting and Drying
To ensure that the previous treatments result in an even overall finish the leather is to be set out to dry. The usual practice is to air dry the leather. To ensure that drying is uniform the leather is stretched and/or mounted to expose to as much airflow. However, mechanical drying is also available. This is generally done similar to wringing where they press the leather with large, heavy rollers to push the moisture out. Vacuum suction is likewise another viable method.
Final Phase: Finishing
The final phase to the leather tanning process and the overall leather making process. This phase focuses mainly on refining the leather to a specific quality intended for a specific use. Here are some examples of different ways to apply finishing to the leather.
Conditioning
For leather to last as long as it should conditioners are applied. Conditioners help the leather retains some helpful moisture and oils that keep its fibers in great shape over time. Different types of conditioners will vary upon different types of leather.
The Dagny Weekender
Staking
If what is intended is to have a smoother, more supple material leather usually goes through the process of staking. Staking is like tenderizing your meat with a mallet. Machines beat the leather to soften its texture. Of course, you can also do this manually although it will cost more time and manpower.
Buffing
Buffing is usually done when you want the leather to have a smoother touch. This also gives the leather a more grainy look. The process of buffing usually involves sanding down the leather in a sanding drum.
Surface Pressing
Another technique that greatly changes the appearance of leather. Surface pressing uses rollers to imprint a pattern into the leather. This also creates texture on the surface of the leather. A common example of surface pressing is embossing.
Example of Surface Pressing
Pros and Cons of Leather Tanning
Leather tanning is great because it creates leather. A material that is not only strong and durable but beautiful as well. It is also a material that can be turned into many things. From accessories to clothing to furniture. While there are many great things that come out of leather tanning there are also bad things. For example, leather tanning promotes the killing of animals to harvest their leather. That is why many turn to the alternative such as vegan leather. It is also a smelly process. The reason why tanneries used to be far away from towns or a community.
What are the Environmental Impacts of Leather Tanning?
Leather tanning has been called out for its environmental impacts, mainly due to water pollution. It lies between the two common methods of tanning. Vegetable tanning has a smaller impact on the environment since it mainly uses biodegradable and organic materials. After tanning, the solutions are usually dumped into bodies of water which eventually dissolve in the water.
Chrome tanning on the other hand is what causes major problems. It uses harmful chemicals that will affect health and the environment. It is especially harmful to the ecosystem where they dispose of chemical wastes. Moreover, studies found that frequent exposure to these chemicals has frightening health risks. Workers at tanneries are therefore very vulnerable to these risks. Frequent and long exposure may lead to cancer and other diseases.
Conclusion
Leather tanning is a marvelous process that involves science and human innovation. It is a process that requires knowledge, skill, and experience. Leather tanning also requires a great deal of time to finish. Likewise, it requires time to perfect. If you own any leather, it is about time you take a pause and appreciate the whole process.
